From Barrier Repair to Year-Round Sunscreen: Dr. Kim Blakely’s Cozy Season Skincare Tips on ‘Breaking Beauty’

When the weather shifts, so should your skincare. The crisp air, low humidity, and shorter days may feel cozy, but your skin barrier doesn’t exactly see it that way. Enter Breaking Beauty, hosted by longtime beauty editors Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins, who brought in Dr. Kim Blakely—a board-certified specialist with a PhD in molecular genetics and a practice that covers everything from medical to cosmetic dermatology—to give the rundown on what to do with your skin when the temperature drops.

So, what does it really take to keep skin healthy when winter hits—without falling into the trap of over-exfoliating, under-moisturizing, or skipping SPF just because it’s dark at 4 p.m.?

Why barrier health matters in cozy season skincare

The skin barrier is “the most upper level of our skin,” Blakely explains, which she compares to bricks and mortar. The bricks are your skin cells, and the mortar is a lipid solution that keeps everything hydrated and intact. When that structure breaks down, “it’s easier for us to lose water through the skin, and then it’s also easier for allergens and irritants to penetrate and cause additional irritation.”

Her warning signs are unmistakable. “If you’re visibly looking red, if you are feeling that burning or tingling sensation on your skin, those are all signs that your barrier is irritated,” she points out. That’s when it’s time to step back, simplify, and reach for products that support barriers.

One of the biggest myths Blakely tackles is that SPF is only for beach days. “I wear my sunscreen to prevent skin cancer and precancerous lesions. I’m also doing it from an anti-aging perspective,” she says. In fact, she calls sunscreen “the most important component of your routine”. She warns that if you skip it, “you’re basically throwing your money down the garbage.”

For anyone dealing with pigmentation issues like melasma, she makes the case even stronger: “Any exposure to UV and, in fact, visible light and blue lights as well, is going to worsen that pigmentation. So, you have to be wearing sunscreen every single day.”

The moisturizer + SPF debate

You may have wondered if a daily moisturizer with SPF is enough. According to Blakely, the answer is no. “My rule of thumb is that you need a separate moisturizer and a separate sunscreen,” she explains. The reason? We don’t apply enough moisturizer to reach the tested SPF level. “Nobody is putting that much moisturizer on their face,” she says flatly, which is why layering an actual sunscreen on top is key.

Slugging, lip balms, and keeping it simple

When it comes to trendy fixes like “slugging”—a term for sealing in your skincare products with a layer of petroleum jelly—Blakely is strategic. “I love the idea of slugging,” she says, while noting that there is a caveat. “I think that if you have a compromised skin barrier, [such as in] my patients who are very atopic, I am often recommending that they lock in their creams with a layer of petroleum jelly.” But she also cautions that it’s not for everyone, especially acne-prone skin.

And those colorful, fragranced lip balms you love? She isn’t a fan. “I am not a fan of lip balms in general. I find that they often have fragrance, different types of waxes within them, lots of different potential sensitizers that can cause irritant or allergic contact dermatitis,.” she states. For chapped lips, Blakely advises sticking to petroleum jelly.

The bottom line on cozy season skincare

Blakely doesn’t believe in one-size-fits-all routines, but she does believe in listening to your skin and building from there. Her go-to list for barrier support includes humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, ceramides, and soothing ingredients like colloidal oat. For instance, you can find hyaluronic acid in serums like The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, and ceramides in moisturizers like CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion.

And while cozy season may be about layering sweaters and lighting candles, the proper skincare is all about layering a trusted moisturizer, a barrier-supporting serum, and daily sunscreen. And as always, it’s best to consult with your own dermatologist or skincare professional before making any major skincare switch-ups.

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